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Gaugin’s Brilliant Stroke was Starting Over Again Any who have followed the zigzag gyrations of Gaugin’s may have a happy surprise in store when they drop in to experience the new ownership, new management and new chef. Plagued by the vacillating policies of former owners, this restaurant has changed directions as many times as a canyon road. Enter now a stable and sophisticated San Maarten Hotel proprietary team and the youthful but highly capable varsity it has put in charge of Gaugin’s. Robert Fader, 30, general manager and maitre d’, made his mark as a mainspring in the remarkable revitalization of Anaheim’s Overland Stage after many years in management for the Cask ‘n’ Cleaver and the Hungry Tiger chains. Chef Guy Sockrider, 29, won his spurs as a chef for the Pimmsol Club in the New Orleans World Trade Center. The new owners have been on hand only since November, the new manager since December and the new chef since February, but already their changes augur well for the future. Major structural renovations are guietly in the works. So far the physical improvements have been confined largely to new carpeting, fixtures, wallpaper and some painting. The new executive team promises to maintain the physical effects reflecting the romantic Tahiti that lured Gaugin, the French brokerage clerk turned artist, away from wife and family, and even from Paris, to spend the creative years of his life in the South Seas. The post-impressionist pioneer might today rejoice to see this Laguna Beach bistro named after him displaying copies of his works with their brilliant aquamarine greens and blues. They do much to enliven the antiquated wooden walls. Hanging plants, low ceilings and twirling fans add to the tropical atmosphere. Tables are lively with fresh roses and linens. Soft lights and candles round out the romance. The service corps seems to reflect esprit; our waitress was upbeat and positive, reacting enthusiastically to her favorite menu favorites. The biggest story here is the quality of the food. Chef Sockrider’s repertoire is a nice mix of French and Italian with Oriental influences dominated by fresh seafoods that could be summerized as “contemporary California cuisine.” Continue » |
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